This trip really touched me. Perhaps it was the fascinating totally differentness of the place. I also think it was having so many days to wander off the grid, lost in my thoughts, focusing on discovery and nurturing my curiosity. Whatever it was it definitely reignited my love of travel again. Posting this final batch of pictures, closes the trip. That makes me a little sad. I’ve been enjoying looking at the pictures, processing, researching and reading more and just wallowing in travel zen, but onward, so here you go!
Ashgabat, the capital city of Turkmenistan, is a place filled with new giant white marble buildings, that feel modern and aspirational towards the future. It has strangely wide boulevards and oddly empty streets. It all feels a little other worldly, but I’m not exactly sure why.
Where as people in the north of the county were so friendly and eager to connect, the strict authoritarian control clearly kept people in Ashgabat wary of strangers. Almost no one would allow me to take a picture, but my memories are filled with images of all the incredible traditional dress the women wore everywhere all the time. Speckles of rich color were such a contrast to all the white.
Since independence from the Soviet Union in 1992, the leaders of Turkmenistan have been trying to create their own vision for the city and country. In Ashgabat that meant tearing down Soviet style buildings and constructing hundreds of ornate white marble buildings decorated in gold that glisten powerfully in the sun. It’s over the top and so hard to describe, but I couldn’t get enough of it.
My tour group left and I stayed for four extra days by myself. With no internet outside my hotel, it was travel old style. No ability to keep googling ideas of where to go, so instead I followed my curiosity and walked and walked.
At night the buildings are lit up in bright over the top Vegas style. In a country with lots of oil and natural gas energy consumption is clearly not a worry.
The city holds the Guinness Book of Records title for most white marble on earth. It’s said that the white is for love and luck. It also reflects the brutal sun. Temps reach up to 150’ in the summer.
The first post Soviet leader was a quirky man. He loved making Guinness records like most fountains, tallest flag pole and largest indoor ferris wheel. And also coming up with random rules like saying all cars have to be white, outlawing dogs because he didn’t like the way they smell, the use of makeup by television presenters, gold teeth and beards. (Upon thought, I bet the banning of beards is to control Islamic fundamentalism, but no one told me that.)
Large gold statues and huge pictures of the post Soviet leaders are up around the city remind everyone who is in control. With tight authoritarian rule that stifles free speech, adding to the lack of English speakers, I couldn’t get the real story of how life was there. My perspective is led by one great travel book, two guides, and a long conversation I had with a local at the American Center. It’s not enough to really understand which is probably why I remain rather mystified. I’m so glad I went though, but it’s always good to be reminded how different things are around the world.
Thank you Turkmenistan for a WONDERFUL visit!
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