|A typical Torajan compound|
The great thing for a low budget traveler like me is that in Tana Toraja I could afford hire a guide, jump on the back of his motorbike and go off and learn about the culture. I heard so much over my 5 days there that I am a bit afraid to even attempt to repeat it for fear of inaccuracies but here goes.
Torajans are renowned for their elaborate funeral rites, burial sites carved into rocky cliffs, massive peaked-roof traditional houses and colorful woodcarvings. Toraja funeral rites are important social events, usually attended by hundreds of people and lasting for several days.
|The funeral procession|
I was able to attend two funerals and see different rituals. Day one is for receiving guests and gifts. This meant an elaborate ceremony where all the guests are honored and led in a procession around the courtyard by the family of the deceased. Although on a daily basis the extent of traditional dress in Tana Toraja is more like jeans and a t-shirt on the first day of the funeral everyone is decked out in their finest Torajan clothes. Each guest or family has brought a gift which often is a live pig or water buffalo. These gifts are displayed in the courtyard and recorded and announced in a ceremony to the crowd.
|A display of buffalo horns from funerals|
Throughout these two days I kept having to pinch myself to prove I was really there. The enormity of the celebration and the total "Wow, I'm having a National Geographic moment" was incredible. Torajans have realized that tourists are interested in their traditions and welcomed us with open arms and bright smiles. On each day there were a small handful us but comparing that to the 1000 local attendees were certainly did not affect the spirit of the celebration.
|Lemo cliff graves|
On the last day of the funeral the casket is placed in the family tomb. Over hundreds of years, Torajans have been carving graves in stone cliffs, caves and building elaborate mausoleums that look like little individual houses bigger than many New York apartments. The deceased is buried with some valuable possessions and ancestors continue to leave offerings at the side of the these tombs. Family members are often entombed together over the years. The idea is that the spirit will live on. Some tombs also have tau tau effigies with them that represent the people who were placed there.
The Weekly Livestock Market
|The buffalo market|
Pigs on the other hand aren't treated as nicely. Small ones are kept in grain sacks which are opened for prospective buyers to peer into. Larger pigs are strapped to bamboo sticks so that they lie flat all day on display. Watching the process of tying them down was painful. They squeal and kick. I must say though I like pigs even better after watching them. They are fighters. They kept kicking as if they really believe they could set themselves free and save themselves from their inevitable death. (The buffaloes at the funeral just stood passively at the funeral as others beside them were slaughtered. They stood in pools of blood and had no reaction at all.)
|Pigs for sale!|
Watching the pigs in the market and at the funerals was one of the rare times I wondered why I eat meat, but then when I was offered pork as part of the funeral I swallowed it up. You know the saying. You just have to get back on the horse! For now I'm meant to be a meat eater.
All in all, visiting Tana Toraja was well worth the two days travel it took from Jakarta to get there. I feel like I learned a lot and met a lot of wonderful people and hope I have been able to give you a small piece of the experience.