Next stop: Gates of Hell in Darvasa

 

Located In the Karakum Desert in the center of Turkmenistan, the Gates of Hell crater was created in 1971 when a Soviet drilling rig accidentally punched into a massive underground natural gas cavern, causing the ground to collapse and the entire drilling rig to fall in. Having punctured a pocket of gas, poisonous fumes began leaking at an alarming rate.

To head off a potential environmental catastrophe, the Soviets set the hole alight, figuring it would stop burning within a few weeks. Decades later, and the fiery pit is still going strong.

The fate of the burning crater may be in limbo. In January 2022, the President ordered the government of Turkmenistan to begin researching how to put the fire out. So far it’s still burning, so I got there in time and was able to enjoy the best bonfire I’ve even seen that radiated wonderful cozy warmth on the cold desert night. Too bad I forgot marshmallows and an incredible long roasting stick!

Visiting a grocery store in Dasoguz

Our first stop in Turkmenistan was Kunya-Urgench a historical area that is now a religious pilgrimage site The area attracted many locals who found us Western travelers to be quite a fascination. Everyone seemed to want pictures with us, but many were afraid to ask so they would just stand nearby and look curious until I asked for pictures and they eagerly agreed and took their own too.

In the end of the 10th century this area was the capital of the huge and prospering Khorezm state which occupied the entire area of the Amu Darya river delta in northern Turkmenistan and western Uzbekistan, including Khiva where I had just come from.

It stood at a good geographical location - the crossing of two major caravan routes: to the east, to China, and from the south - to the northwest, to the Volga. It quickly expanded, turning in to a true center of civilization. In the beginning of the 11th century Kunya - Urgench became so well-known that eclipsed the glory of Bukhara. Scientists and poets, who glorified the city as "the capital of thousand wise men", flocked there.

During entire 13th century Kunya - Urgench had been a heart of "the Islamic World" until its governor rebelled against Genghis Khan. Mongols completely destroyed the famous city, razed it to the ground. That is why contemporary Kunya - Urgench is considerably wrecked. Many historical buildings of Kunya-Urgench have remained from the times of Khoresm dynasty. They can serve as examples of the variety of Islamic architecture of Central Asia since the ruins represent types of construction designs and rare dome shapes.

It was interesting to visit this area in contrast to the Uzbekistan sites we went to, because Turkmenistan believes in leaving these historic buildings in as they found them vs renovating them back to their original grandeur. Somehow that stirred me and made me think more broadly about preservation.

Dasoguz, Turkmenistan

 

We spent our first night in Dasoguz and began to see how Turkmenistan was going to be a very unusual place to visit. I had read about how the country’s leaders had been replacing Soviet buildings with big dramatic white fine Italian marble buildings for years, but I didn’t fully get how strange this would be to see in person. This small city is the center of the agricultural sector in the area. It had large almost empty boulevards and giant showy buildings that really don’t seem to fit into the desert scene around them. Many have been built for government ceremonies and are only used once or twice a year and otherwise are empty. At night most of the buildings were lit with colorful light displays. Click thru to see the huge marble hotel we stayed in with only a handful of other guests. Check out our hostage photo showing we were ok, or were we? Every newspaper in the lobby has the same two pictures of Serdar Berdimuhamedow, the county’s newish 3rd President, on it. A sure sign of a strange type of authoritarian rule, if I’ve ever seen one.

This is as good a place as any to mention again that Turkmenistan sits on the one of the largest natural gas reserves in the world. Due to that the leaders have had lots of money to build their marble vision.

Environmental Degradation of the Turkmanistan Border

I’ve heard over and over again in recent times that the next world wars will be fought over access to water. In Central Asia’s five landlocked nations there is not enough water. All the nations are fighting over limited resources. In northwestern Turkmenistan, as we crossed the border, I saw this more starkly than I ever have seen it before. What you see might look like a light snow on the ground, but instead it is salt left over from watering crops with highly salinated water.

The issue was only made more stark when the Soviet Union chose this area to grow cotton and it sucked up what water was available. Now as the earth gets hotter there is need for more water and the water available is not healthy or very usable and that land is mostly unproductive and unfarmable.

Day 1: Kunya - Urgench

 

Our first stop in Turkmenistan was Kunya-Urgench a historical area that is now a religious pilgrimage site The area attracted many locals who found us Western travelers to be quite a fascination. Everyone seemed to want pictures with us, but many were afraid to ask so they would just stand nearby and look curious until I asked for pictures and they eagerly agreed and took their own too.

In the end of the 10th century this area was the capital of the huge and prospering Khorezm state which occupied the entire area of the Amu Darya river delta in northern Turkmenistan and western Uzbekistan, including Khiva where I had just come from.

It stood at a good geographical location - the crossing of two major caravan routes: to the east, to China, and from the south - to the northwest, to the Volga. It quickly expanded, turning in to a true center of civilization. In the beginning of the 11th century Kunya - Urgench became so well-known that eclipsed the glory of Bukhara. Scientists and poets, who glorified the city as "the capital of thousand wise men", flocked there.

During entire 13th century Kunya - Urgench had been a heart of "the Islamic World" until its governor rebelled against Genghis Khan. Mongols completely destroyed the famous city, razed it to the ground. That is why contemporary Kunya - Urgench is considerably wrecked. Many historical buildings of Kunya-Urgench have remained from the times of Khoresm dynasty. They can serve as examples of the variety of Islamic architecture of Central Asia since the ruins represent types of construction designs and rare dome shapes.

It was interesting to visit this area in contrast to the Uzbekistan sites we went to, because Turkmenistan believes in leaving these historic buildings in as they found them vs renovating them back to their original grandeur. Somehow that stirred me and made me think more broadly about preservation.

Crossing the Uzbekistan-Turkmenistan Border

          

Traveling into Turkmenistan, one of the least visited countries in the world, meant standing in line at the land border crossing with my heart beating extra fast in fear of the unknown. It took a couple hours, but all went smoothly and we were greeted by friendly smiles on the other side. Unfortunately I only have this one under the radar photo for my memories, because the people watching along the way was pretty great.

Uzbekistan Photos

I've always wanted to travel the Silk Road and see the beautiful tiles in Uzbekistan for many years and even with all the expectation this trip was better than I could have hoped for. I'll always remember the wide smiles of the locals, the incredible architecture, the tastes that showed the way the constant flow of people and things on those trading routes wove together many different cultures in a lasting way, and the way thousands of years of history through many empires started to become real and not just something I read about in a book. Also, my year of Russian classes finally had some use even if I can only remember about 6 words.

Thanks for joining me on this journey.

Click HERE to see the rest of my Uzbekistan pictures

Khiva, Uzbekistan

 

Next stop, Khiva. An 8 hour drive from Bukhara lies another little city with its own flavor, including being the part of the country with the prettiest women. (Which I learned from my beautiful female guide who was from there , but was told the same thing in Turkmenistan too and definitely noticed the women had a distinct look.)

Khiva’s Itchan Kala, the walled city, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the best preserved and most impressive destinations on the Silk Road. Well-preserved streets, mosques made of baked mud bricks and majestic fortress walls evoke the spirit of the caravans of traders (and conquerors), which once passed through in great numbers.

Founded some 2,500 years ago, this open-air museum is a labyrinth of streets lined with dozens of intricately decorated monuments, most of which date from the 14th to the 19th centuries.

One highlight was visiting a three generation family of tightrope walkers who put on a show for us. But again, the biggest highlights were the ornate tiles throughout the old city.

Uzbek Faces

In each place I go, it’s the faces of the people that I really want to capture. Buildings are nice. People are even better. In so many places people say no when I ask if I can take a picture, but I’m really grateful to the friendly people of Uzbekistan, who said yes and even often asked for a picture with me. I’m happy to remember each if these faces and interactions. It makes a place much more memorable.

Bukhara, Uzbekistan

 

Bukhara is one of the gems of Uzbekistan and my favorite stop in the country and probably my favorite stop un Uzbekistan. The historic city centre is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. There are 140 protected buildings. The age of the city exceeds 2500 years.

Got my first proposal in Uzbekistan

Got my first proposal (I think???) The guy in the back wants to come to America and needs a Green Card. As you can see, the guy in the front thought it was hilarious. It’s amazing how much can be conveyed even when you don’t speak the same language.

New Yorkers meeting each other in Samarkand, Uzbekistan.

Yup, this guy must have heard Rhoda and I talking, because he came up to tell us he lived in New York City. Brooklyn to be exact. He grew up here and was home visiting. NYC has a big Uzbek population and many people here have been telling us they have family there.

Chorsu Market, Tashkent

 

Travel around the world means stopping at many food markets. In a small sign that I might be jaded from too many journeys, these days I’m a little skeptical about if going to them is worth the time. I mean how many different things can people be selling from place to place? Luckily I power through my bad attitude and go anyway, because markets always offer fun new things to look at and eat!

Chorsu Bazaar in Tashkent is one of the most important markets in the region and has existed along the Silk Road since at least 1220 when the Mongols came storming through.

What was new to me here, you might ask? Huge chunks of animal fat for flavoring. Horse meat or also actually noticing all the different shades of different meats. Seeing inside the of casing of thick sausages.

Bread bowls. Bread ovens. Kimchi and other Korean standards. (Stalin moved the Koreans living in the USSR down to the Stans to muffle discent. They have been flourishing in Uzbekistan since.) Delicious tiny bit sized oranges (Sorry. No picture. Ate them too quickly.)

Soviet Era Architecture in Tashkent

One reason I like to travel to countries that were under the Soviet influence is the architecture. Tashkent, Uzbekistan has some fine examples. In 1966 an earthquake destroyed most of the city and the Soviet’s came in to rebuild. They took it as an opportunity to redesign the entire street grid. What exists now is giant 10 lane boulevards and giant blocks wish giant buildings lining them.

Tashkent, the capitol of Uzbekistan

 

In my travel style, understanding a city takes miles and miles of walking and lots of little observations. In 4 days in Tashkent I covered a lot of ground. Here are a bunch of random street scenes that hopefully bring some of it it to life for all of you.

Celebrating Nowruz/Navroz in Tashkent

I landed in Uzbekistan just in time to celebrate the Persian holiday of Navroz/Nowruz. March 21st is the day of the vernal equinox, and marks the beginning of spring in the Northern Hemisphere. Nature here also knows its spring as flowers and leaves are bursting open all over. Tonight I went to a Navruz concert with Uzbek pop-stars to ring in the holiday.

Architecture in Tashkent

One reason I like to travel to countries that were under the Soviet influence is the architecture. Tashkent, Uzbekistan has some fine examples. In 1966 an earthquake destroyed most of the city and the Soviet’s came in to rebuild. They took it as an opportunity to redesign the entire street grid. What exists now is giant 10 lane boulevards and giant blocks wish giant buildings lining them.

Riding the rails on the Tashkent Metro

The Tashkent Uzbekistan Metro system is stunning. Built in the Soviet days, it opened in 1977. Each station is designed around a particular theme. A ride only costs 17 cents! One tourist activity is to ride the trains to see all the stations. Take a look at a few of the highlights.

Welcoming the Victorious Uzbek Women's Boxing Team Home

Today there were many people from the Uzbek Women’s Boxing Team on my flight. I sat next to one of the coaches and learned they had competed in Serbia, but that was the extent of his English. I wondered if they would be greeted at the airport. Seemed like the kind of traditional thing I might see in a former Soviet country.

Well, when I got to the passport line I could hear a marching band playing and sure enough, the team was greeted with great fanfare like hometown heroes. Each one received a tradition full length jacket and beautiful flowers and the four who won medals showed them off to the eager group of photographers and press.

I just googled and learned they got one silver and three bronze medals. This marks the best-ever result for Uzbekistan’s women’s boxing at the World Championships Bravo Uzbekistan women!

If only the band was there to greet me though…

Hello Uzbekistan! My 74th country.

Third times a charm in Istanbul, Turkey

This was my third trip to Istanbul. My last one was only two years ago, so memories were still fresh, but the thing about a big, energetic, fun, exciting, spread out over two continents, city is there is always more to see and new things to discover. I walked 30k steps a day up and down the hills gathering new insights and also enjoying some favorites. 

Things I love. 

• Call to prayer ringing out all over from 3000 mosques around the city. 
• The cats who are everywhere and so affectionate because everyone feeds them, including me. 
• The incredible fashionable residents. 
• The ferries and other boats buzzing around in every direction in the rivers. 
• That just about every restaurant has outdoor seating, which makes street life feel so vibrant. 
• The hammam baths and scrubs. So luxurious and perfect for after a long flight! 
• Fresh pomagranate juice. 
• The food, where there is so much flavor, but not scary hot spices. 

My stepfather told me once when I was little that Istanbul was the most beautiful city in the world and I think he is right. I’m glad those words inspired me to go and now that I’ve been able to get to know it. Bye bye and hope to see you soon.

Click HERE to see my full set of pictures