Arriving in North Korea is like stepping out of a time
machine. Soldiers are walking in the streets in the same uniforms from way back
when. Citizens are working collectively on community volunteer projects like
planting flowers for road beautification or repairing sidewalks. Farmers are working in the
fields just outside the city perimeter. There is very
little car traffic. (With the economic embargo,
gasoline is hard to get so the issue seems to be framed that not driving is the
patriotic thing to do. Sundays, the day
we arrived was a voluntary no driving day. Though it was also not clear to me
how many people even have cars?) Rusty old buses and street cars are packed
with people and seem to run constantly. The
sidewalks are packed with people walking to get places. Many others ride bicycles.
A view of one of the cool huge monuments in the middle of town. |
Simpler images of the 50s come to mind. For me, it brought back strong
memories of visiting the U.S.S.R. in the 80s with giant, uniform, high rise
concrete buildings, small stores selling almost nothing, no advertising, and simple
signage accented with bright obvious propaganda images on billboards all
over. And like my trip to the U.S.S.R. my movements were completely controlled and monitored and I was only allowed to see and talk to people they wanted me to.
There are lots of big granite memorials, statues, obelisks celebrating the ideals of the regime. (North Korea is a major exporter of granite but apparently they keep a little of it to make their own statues!)
Women dress much more conservatively than most modern standards, though many others look a lot like
One of the Young Pioneer Corps - The NK Communist Youth |
It’s very hard to describe this all and give you the real
feel. In one way it was very
soothing. Things feel orderly and under
control in a way that I didn’t question until I thought about how it could be this
way without real enforcement. Apartment
buildings look alike and are painted in light pastels. Everything flows nicely. Soldiers are EVERYWHERE but they are sloppy
and a bit ragtag and don’t feel so oppressive.
It’s hard to imagine them being the fighting force that our government
is so afraid of. Their vehicles are
still from the time of the Korean War and I kept hoping Hawkeye Pierce would drive by
on one of the old green jeeps. (Gotta
start watching MASH again.)
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